The height of the tourist season is also the height of the music season in Santorini. If you are here in July, you may want to take in the annual Santorini Jazz Festival , which has been bringing several dozen international jazz bands and artists here every summer since 1997. Many performances are on Kamari beach. In August and September, the 2-week Santorini International Music Festival (tel. 22860/23-166), with international singers and musicians, gives performances of classical music at the Nomikos Centre in Fira. Admission to most events starts at 15€ ($20).
Fira has nightlife aplenty, with some variety. We suggest starting the evening with a drink on the caldera, taking in the spectacular sunset. Franco's (tel. 22860/22-881) is still the most famous and best place for this magic hour; be prepared to pay 10€ ($13) and up (and up!) per drink. For more reasonable prices, a bit more seclusion, and the same fantastic view, continue through Canava Cafe and below Loucas Hotel to Renaissance Bar (tel. 22860/22-880). Underneath the square, Kirathira Bar plays jazz at a level that permits conversation, and the nearby Art Café offers muted music.
Cross the main street and wander around the shopping area to find a number of smaller bars that come alive after 9pm. A bit farther north, the outdoor Tropical Bar attracts a louder, rowdier gang. For bouzoukia, find Bar 33. Ellenes has loud Greek dancing music, starting no earlier than 11pm. Discos come and go, and you need only follow your ears to find them. Koo Club is the biggest, while Enigma is still popular with travelers interested in good music. Tithora is popular with a young, heavy-drinking crowd. There's usually no cover, but drinks start at most places at 10€ ($13).
In Ia, Zorba's is a popular cliffside pub. The fine restaurant/bar 1800 is a quiet and sophisticated place to stop in for a drink -- and certainly for a meal.
Kamari has its share of bars. Yellow Donkey Disco (tel. 22860/31-462) is popular with younger partiers, while the more sophisticated seek out chic Valentino's, near the bus stop.
Greek dancers in traditional costumes often perform a floor show at Messaria, at Canava Roussos Winery (tel. 22860/31-276); call first to confirm if there is a show and to make a reservation.
